Exodus to Egypt

Counting Days

2005-06-18T21:12:00.000-07:00

We’re drawing near the end. As I write this, it is Saturday morning, 18 June 2005. We don’t have our plane tickets yet (the school is getting them for us), but we should be flying out on or somewhere around 1 July.

At this point, Faith and I are having mixed feelings. On the one hand, we are so excited to be coming home. We have been away for almost one year—away from our families, our friends, our familiar landscapes, and our country.

On the other hand, we are also sad to be leaving. We have lived here long enough for Egypt to feel like home. When we first came here, we would step outside or look out the window or just sit at our dining room table and say, “wow—we’re in Egypt!” But now, this is just one of many places we have lived in and become attached to.

We are also, of course, thinking of the friends we will be leaving, our roomy apartment, our students—and the fact that you can have pretty much everything (from the grocery store, the pharmacy, etc.) delivered to your home!

We also wonder how we will survive without a maid coming in once a week to clean for us. ;-)

I am also saddened by the thought of not being here to observe more closely the changes Egypt will be experiencing over the next 12 months. The government bussing in thugs to beat people up and sexually assault women who were protesting during the recent referendum on changes to the Egyptian Constitution was not inspiring, to say the least, but the process of reform has probably already acquired a life of its own. There are forces at work in Egypt and in the world that even President Mubarak cannot control, and change (as everyone here admits, including the government) is inevitable. My main hope is that change can come with as few people being hurt as possible.

We are very uncertain what we’ll be doing next. But it looks like we WILL have the option of coming back to Egypt. To our surprise, the school is asking us to come back! I think the main reason is that the Kindergarten Annual Show was a huge hit and Faith is getting a lot of the credit for it. We are going to talk to Mrs. Azza, the School Director, next week and discuss some ideas, but we are definitely NOT making a decision until we come back to the US, explore some options there, and think things over.

I, however, am definitely not interested in teaching in a regular classroom setting here, so that might present a bump or two—but I think there may be other possibilities which we’ll look into.

In short, coming back to Egypt will be one option among many. But right now we’re feeling we would only come back if we failed to find a suitable and sustainable alternative in the states. As much as we love Egypt (despite all its flaws), we really would prefer to stay in the US for the time-being.

I guess we’ll see.

Saying Goodbye—and Summer School

2005-06-18T21:10:00.000-07:00

Faith and her children now are parted. The day after the KG Annual Show was her last day, and, as predicted long ago, it was an emotional day. When the time finally came for her students to leave, there was a lot of crying all around. Faith loves her children and they love her: the bond she’s forged with them is amazing. I refer to this day as “Mrs. Faith’s Revenge,” because the FIRST day she was with her kids they were crying and wailing and throwing up and even,in one case, scratching her pretty badly. But now, on the LAST day, it was Faith’s turn to cry hard and get THEM all upset.

What I predicted has come true: on that first, awful day I told Faith that “right now they’re other people’s kids—but by the last day they will be YOUR kids.” I’m so happy this came true, though it’s also hard for Faith. She loves them so much that being separated from them hurts. But this is definitely one of the great experiences of her life, and she wouldn't’ change a thing.

Yesterday we met several of Faith’s parents and their children at Chili’s. We had a great time, and when Faith received a big card (see photos) signed by many of her students she got all weepy again and everyone was very touched. It was also very funny to see the kids coming up to her the entire time to tell her things—”I love you so very much, Mrs. Faith,” “I’m finished eating, Mrs. Faith” (they always told her this at school because, once they finished eating, they could go outside to play), “come play with me, Mrs. Faith” and “Mrs. Faith so-and-so did such-and-such!” It was like they all were still in school, or just assumed that this is what Faith DOES: that she always is, and will be, a peacekeeper, a caregiver, and a playmate.

It was so amazing for me to see them look at her sometimes: there was such a glow of happiness and affection in their eyes.

It was beautiful.

Faith is not entirely done with the school, though, since she’ll be doing various things, like interviewing prospective students, over the next week or maybe two. I, meanwhile, am teaching a summer school writing course for ONE student! Because he needs to pass this course to graduate with his fellow seniors, he’s pretty motivated and we’re having a good time. He’s by no means unintelligent, but was (like all too many seniors) terribly unmotivated most of the year. He is particularly interested in science and physics, so our reading and writing work is centering on scientific essays and ideas. My wide-ranging interests are coming in handy in this case, since I’m very interested in science and the scientific method as well.

The course is done this Wednesday, and after that I think I’m probably finished at the school. Then we will be packing, shipping some stuff back home, saying more good-byes, and mentally preparing ourselves to fly out of Cairo, perhaps not to return for many years.

It is a strange and sad and happy time.

Take Five!

2005-06-18T21:09:00.000-07:00

DSC01128
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Faith and her kids take a rest from rehearsing for the wall-shaking “We Will Rock You!” dance number.

KG Annual Show Action Photo

2005-06-18T21:07:00.000-07:00

DSC01149
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Faith’s kids in the midst of the opening “Stayin Alive” dance number. I wish I had a decent photo of the show-stopping “Barbie Girl” number. This one startled the entire audience with its organization, lightning-quick dance moves, and high-octane Mrs. Faith-inspired energy. I think everyone would have really liked an encore. (In this picture, meanwhile, you can see Mrs. Faith directing her students near the left-hand side of the stage.)

No Wonder Faith Cried

2005-06-18T21:06:00.000-07:00

DSC01159
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Egyptian kids just might be the cutest in the world.

The Many Faces of Faith

2005-06-18T21:05:00.000-07:00

DSC01191
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

One of Faith’s fellow teachers put together this collage of pictures featuring the divine Mrs. Faith. The teachers in her school also voted on a series of awards and Faith won THREE: “best laugh,” "funniest,” and “most likely to freak out.” (Sounds like they got to know her pretty well!)

Faith and Lee at a Wedding Reception

2005-06-18T21:04:00.000-07:00

DSC01195
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

One of the teachers in our school got married on Thursday and here’s a photo of Faith and Lee at the reception. Now WHY do people sometimes try to disagree with me when I say that Faith is the photogenic one?

Faith and Some of Her Kids at Chili’s

2005-06-18T21:02:00.000-07:00

DSC01201
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

There were a half-dozen people trying to take pictures at the same time, so this one is not perfect, but it will do.

Faith and Her Parents Faith and Her Parents

2005-06-18T21:00:00.000-07:00

DSC01205
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The impact Faith had on her kids and their parents is, I think, amply demonstrated by the turnout for her going-away lunch party. I’m so proud of her.

“Leaving?”, front

2005-06-18T20:56:00.000-07:00

DSC01209
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

“Leaving?”, inside

2005-06-18T20:55:00.000-07:00

DSC01210
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Terrorism and General Egypt Update

2005-05-15T15:25:00.000-07:00

The low-light of Rob, Laura, Eric, and Charlotte’s visit was (aside from people hectoring them to buy things or wanting “baksheesh,” which basically means “tips”) concerns about safety. The week before they came a young man tried to throw a bomb in the Khan el Khalili market, killing himself and 3 foreigners, including an American. Because of this, we decided to skip the market and, the first weekend they were here (before they went off on their own journeys outside of Cairo), focus instead on the lovely Al Azhar Park, the Citadel, and Coptic Cairo, which seemed safer places to be than the Egyptian Museum or the Pyramids, which are less defensible and have very high concentrations of foreign tourists.
Fortunately nothing happened while they here, but a week or so after they left there were two more incidents that, it turns out, were related to the first. Apparently several people were still wanted in connection to the first bombing, and one of them blew himself up and injured some tourists near the Museum while being chased by police. The other incident took place a short time after that when the bomber’s fiancee and sister shot at a tourist bus then, we’re told, killed themselves. Neither attack seemed very well planned, which buttresses the government’s claim that this was a small, isolated, and unsophisticated group. I hope this is true. So far, there is no good reason to think it isn’t.

Tensions are, however, growing in Egypt overall. (Though you'd need to read the news to know it, for the most part.) Protests against the government are becoming more common, and the big new Constitutional amendment is receiving a great deal of criticism from opposition leaders for making it too difficult for others to run for President against Mubarak. One interesting development is that a large segment of Egyptian judges is refusing to monitor the elections unless they are given total control over voter lists, ballot distribution, election-day monitoring, vote-counting, etc. They are afraid, it seems, of being used by the government to help make an unfair election look fair. I think this is a very brave and commendable stand, and I hope they are successful. The government, I think, was betting they could manipulate the situation to their advantage: they may succeed, ultimately, in doing this, but protesters, opposition parties, and the judges aren’t going to make it easy. I would guess they all—including (maybe even especially) the Islamic parties—are not happy about the recent terrorism in Cairo. Violence will only give the government more excuses to limit the field of candidates and defend the status quo.

Everyone Together!

2005-05-15T15:08:00.000-07:00

DSC00928
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

On the last day of their stay with us, the American tourists and Faith and I went to Rania and Mohammed's for a good traditional Egyptian breakfast chock-full of food and good conversation. Afterwards, we went to the Pyramids.

Seated on the floor from left to right is Charlotte Easterling, her husband Eric Shipley, Abdel-Rahmen, and Habiba. Seated directly behind them are Faith, Lee, and Laura Wood. In the back are Rania, 2 year old Abdullah, Mohammed, and Laura's boyfriend Rob Knowles. Rob and Eric are friends of Lee from way, way back.

Two Mosques

2005-05-15T15:00:00.000-07:00

DSC00924
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This picture was taken from the Citadel, the huge, fortified area where the Muhammad Ali mosque is located. It shows two mosques (the Mosque of Sultan Hassan and the al'Rafa'l Mosque) side-by-side. Also note the haze of pollution in the background.

Muhammad Ali Mosque, 2nd View

2005-05-15T14:57:00.000-07:00

DSC00916
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Muhammad Ali Mosque

2005-05-15T14:54:00.000-07:00

DSC00922
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

No, this incredibly beautiful mosque was made neither by nor for the American boxer! Muhammad Ali was an extremely powerful and influential 19th century Egyptian ruler. One of his many accomplishments, aside from butchering his enemies without mercy, is this wonderful building, constructed around 1850. (Sorry we have no pictures from the inside: we'll go back!)

Church Interior 3

2005-05-15T14:52:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The dramatic ceiling of the Church of St. George

Church Interior 2

2005-05-15T14:49:00.000-07:00

DSC00895
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Each of these stations along the wall represents, I believe, one of the 12 Apostles.

Church Interior

2005-05-15T14:47:00.000-07:00

DSC00889
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Coptic Church

2005-05-15T14:44:00.000-07:00

DSC00882
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This photo, and the following three, show the Church of Saint George in an area of the city called Coptic Cairo. We visited this area recently with out-of-country friends Rob, Laura, Eric, and Charlotte, who were in Egypt for 10 whole days! While in Coptic Cairo we also saw the famous Hanging Church and got a glimpse inside the stunningly beautiful Ben Ezra Synagogue--a building which now, sadly, is unused, except by tourists.

Clown Invasion!!!!

2005-05-15T14:41:00.000-07:00

DSC00771
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Egyptian birthday parties are curious affairs. Blaring music, screaming kids, and an endless parade of frightening, poorly constructed monster-freaks coming out to dance with (and be assaulted by) the kids are, it seems, de rigueur. The party here pictured was for the children of our good friends Rania and Mohammed. The girl between the blue mutant and freaky vest-wearing clown is their daughter Habiba. Their son, Abdel-Rahmen, was also present but is not pictured. A fun (if absolutely horrifying) time was had by all.

Palace Guards

2005-05-15T14:38:00.000-07:00

00440027
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This palace, closed to the public, was the summer home of King Farouk. It now is undergoing some renovations while being guarded by two extremely tough-looking Americans.

Faith, Lee, Pillar, and Some Kid

2005-05-15T14:35:00.000-07:00

00440025
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This is the outside of the Greco-Roman museum, where we are posing with a pillar. Why this kid is so interested in what we're doing I can't say.

Faith, Lee, and Marcus

2005-05-15T14:32:00.000-07:00

00440022
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The statue is of one of Lee's favorite dead guys, the Roman philosopher-emperor Marcus Aurelius. We are in the Greco-Roman Museum in Alexandria here.

Pictures from Alexandria

2005-05-15T13:46:00.000-07:00

Here are some old pictures from our trip way back in November to the seaside city of Alexandria. This was before we bought our digital camera, so these pictures were taken by our friend Dalia using a normal camera. A while back she scanned them, and so now we have something to show you from that trip!

A Report on Lee's Situation

2005-05-15T13:45:00.000-07:00

About a month ago I switched from teaching to editing/writing numerous school publications. The main problem on the teaching front was that my students were getting more and more difficult to control, I felt I was getting less and less done, and I was given very little help from the school. Our school Director wasn’t happy, she called me in, and we had a long, frank conversation about things. I basically said I could TRY to do better but that I was pretty much burnt-out and felt I simply lacked the skill or the strength to get things back in line. In the end, however, things worked out pretty well. We were already overstaffed, while the school desperately needed help with various publications, the quality of which were distressingly low.

In one sense, of course, all of this is sad. I don't like the idea of quitting the classroom when there was only a month and a half left. However, I felt SO incredibly relieved when we agreed to this that I realized it really was for the best. I could have stuck it out a few more weeks, but I wouldn't have felt good about what I was doing. I don't know if it's because it's spring, or because we had gone so long without a vacation, or because the end of the school year is in sight, but the kids have been very difficult lately—and not just for me: even teachers that have kept firm control of their classrooms have been having problems lately. Another American teacher actually threw five kids out, said they had F's for the course, and that he didn't want to see them anymore. (Now why didn’t I think of that?)

I should note at this point that I had actually been getting along well with my kids. Most of them like me—and several of them have told me that they miss me a lot (one girl even said I had been her best teacher—sigh....)—but the problem was too many of them simply didn't take me seriously enough in terms of classroom discipline. For them, however, it was nothing personal, and I don't think they realized how much it bothered me because I didn't shout or get very angry like several of their other teachers. This was a cultural difference that really undermined me: because the kids were used to people screaming at them (and because even the screaming made an only moderate impression on them) they found it difficult to believe I was serious because I didn't shout and I didn't get angry.

Once, in 11C, which was maybe my favorite class (though they were difficult), I DID get angry and shouted at a couple students and a third student smiled up at me and said, "Mr. Lee, you're a very good actor!" At that point I couldn't help but throw up my hands in exasperation and laugh, "I'm NOT acting!!!”

I guess I just wasn't that convincing.

I’ve also realized that, if I’m going to teach High School anymore, I REALLY need to be careful about the context in which that teaching takes place. I already knew this sort of environment (low skills, high disciplinary problems) was a bad one for me, I just didn't know this was the situation in this school. I ASSUMED a foreign school like this would have far more students who took their education seriously and that behavior issues would be less of a problem than in the States. Unfortunately, this was not true. I did my best, but in the end I just didn't have the experience or willpower or energy to do it. Some days I'd walk into school ready to take care of business, but other days I just couldn't summon the energy to care. It didn't help when I realized I couldn't just crack down for a while until everyone got the message: the way things work here, you ONLY get results WHILE you crack down. The moment you let up, things revert right back into a state of nature. This holds no matter who is in charge.

In any case, this situation was simply not a good fit for me. And yet, it still has been a great experience and I've never regretted—even for a moment—coming here. I’ll cherish the memories of many kids, especially the ones who did the right thing and even tried to help me out. There ARE students at our school who care about learning, who don’t believe that it’s okay to do something simply because you think you can get away with it, and who are unfailingly kind and generous people. I am so thankful for them.

Change!?!?

2005-03-07T03:59:00.000-08:00

A lot has happened on the political front recently. Elections in Iraq and Palestine, political protests against Syria in Lebanon (which Syria dominates) which led to the resignation of the pro-Syrian Prime Minister and cabinet, and, most startling of all, President Mubarak’s announcement—live on Egyptian television—that the Presidential election this fall will be open to all of Egypt’s legalized parties. (Before now, the more or less powerless Parliament nominated the President, while Egyptians merely voted yes or no on the appointment.) If the government follows through on this, it will be a major development. Although the most powerful non-governmental party—the Muslim Brotherhood—is currently outlawed, not all the approved parties are there for show. The Al-Ghad party (Ghad means “tomorrow”) is headed by a man named Ayman Nour who has pressed hard for the government to change the constitution to allow for real elections as well as term limits for the President. The fact that Ayman Nour is the real deal appears confirmed by his arrest in January and subsequent interrogation (though hopefully not torture) at the hands of the Egyptian authorities. Whether Ayman Nour will be able to run or not is unclear, but the genie appears to be out of the bottle on this issue.

As for Egyptians, there seems to be, from my own observation, a lot of skepticism. They think it’s probably all for show and that nothing will change. I, however, am not so sure. It is very difficult in this day and age to have a “free election” that isn’t free while getting away with it. If the government thinks they can control this and manipulate it for their own benefit they may be in for a surprise. The same-old-thing merely painted up as something-better might be more inflammatory to the people here than the same-old-thing by itself would be.

The question remains, however: why is Mubarak doing this now? One factor, surely, is mounting pressure for change from America. Another is the example of elections in Iraq, where millions of Iraqis (more than 50% of eligible voters) turned out in the face of threats to “wash the streets” with their blood to cast ballots in what often seemed an almost carnival atmosphere. Iraq’s story, naturally, is far from finished, but the spectacle of elections taking place with such relative success in the LEAST FAVORABLE ENVIRONMENT in the entire Middle East is having an impact on the region. If it can be done THERE, why not HERE?

Another factor, perhaps (and this is my own speculation), has to do with public opinion here in Egypt. They are not large and are not many, but protests against the government and Mubarak’s plans to run for a sixth-term unopposed HAVE been taking place. This sort of thing is virtually unheard of here, and I wonder if the government didn’t realize that—if protests have ALREADY started with the “elections” still many months away—it is entirely possible such disruptions will grow ever larger as election-time approaches. My speculation, then, is this: that the government is worried that popular discontent will dramatically increase and so decided to take preemptive action instead of hoping for the best but then having to cave in under mounting popular pressure. By opening the elections, they also opened a kind of pressure valve to take steam out of the discontent of potential protesters. This way they can also “give in” from a position of real strength, since no one could argue public protests have imperiled the government—at least not yet.

In any case, I deeply hope President Mubarak is sincere and will do his best to follow through on what he’s promised. He is an imperfect leader in a very difficult and dangerous job who has managed to keep Egypt together and at peace for the past quarter of a century. His ushering in a more democratic future for his country, however, would be his greatest triumph—a triumph not only for him, but, indeed, for all Egyptians. I hope he seizes this historic opportunity and does the right thing. This wonderful but troubled country deserves it.

Our Trip to Jordan

2005-03-07T03:38:00.000-08:00

Jordan was a place very different from Cairo. There were fewer people, the country was far cleaner, the roads were well-maintained, there were hills, and liquor stores could be seen on streets and in the grocery stores. (Alcohol was also served in most of the restaurants we ate at.) Tiny compared to Egypt (3 or 4 million versus 70 or 80 million), Jordan also benefits from not having to deal with overpopulation. The war in Iraq has been a particularly big boon to the country with many businesses and contractors using Jordan as a stopover on their way to Iraq. Much like Alexandra, it provided a welcome contrast to Cairo though, in the end, I must admit I still prefer the Mother of the World to either place.

We stayed with our friends Kip and Kari, who we met at the job fair last year. As for the rest of the story, I’ll let the pictures and the captions do the work.

Jordan Pictures

2005-03-07T03:35:00.000-08:00

The first batch of photos are from Jerash, known in the Bible as Geresa. It was built by Greeks, then was taken over by the Romans. Later on, after the city became a part of the Byzantine Empire, it gave up paganism for Christianity, and many magnificent churches were built. Now, however, churches and temples alike are ruins. Next come photos from Amman, the capital of Jordan. Finally (the day we flew out) there are some pictures from our trek to Mount Nebo where Moses died. Enjoy.

(note: all photographs are displayed chronologically from top to bottom)

Hippodrome

2005-03-07T03:34:00.000-08:00

1. Hippodrome
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Chariot races were held here for centuries before audiences of up to 15,000 people. Now, however, there is only Lee, imagining the roars and laughter of the eating and drinking crowds.

Temple of Zeus

2005-03-07T03:33:00.000-08:00

2. Zeus
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The ruins of the Temple proper are located at the top of the hill. Everything in the foreground, including the stairs and the ground we're standing on, is part of the approach to it. In the upper right-hand side of the picture is the outer wall of the South Theater. (see below)

The Actress and Her Stage

2005-03-07T03:30:00.000-08:00

3. Faith-Theater
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Faith takes a contemplative stroll across the stage of the Southern Amphitheater. Too bad the ancient Romans never had the chance to see her perform.

South Theater—wider view

2005-03-07T03:29:00.000-08:00

4. Theater
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This theater was built by the Roman Emperor Domitian in the first century A.D.

The Cardo

2005-03-07T03:28:00.000-08:00

5. Cardo
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

A cardo is a colonnaded street. This one was one of the main thoroughfares of ancient Jerash and, if you look closely, you can see the ruts worn into the paving stones by the wheels of countless wagons that, over many long-lost centuries, rolled here.

Oval Plaza, ground view

2005-03-07T03:22:00.000-08:00

6. Oval1
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Oval Plaza, view from near the Temple of Zeus

2005-03-07T03:21:00.000-08:00

7. Oval2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Modern Jerash is in the background in this picture.

Church Fountain

2005-03-07T03:20:00.000-08:00

8. Fountain
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

I believe this fountain and everything around it is part of the ruins of the Church of Saint Theodore, which was built around 500 AD. By this time, Jerash was under the control of the Christian Byzantine Empire, and the cults of Zeus and Artemis had largely faded from the scene.

Temple of Artemis, First View

2005-03-07T03:19:00.000-08:00

9. Artemis1
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The highlight of our visit to Jerash—and even Jordan as a whole. The remains of this temple are absolutely stunning. After nearly an hour of lingering here, Lee, for one, felt ready to sign up with the goddess.

Temple of Artemis, Second View

2005-03-07T03:18:00.000-08:00

10. Artemis2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Columns in the Sky

2005-03-07T03:17:00.000-08:00

11. Artemis3
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

So lovely.

It Moves!!!!

2005-03-07T03:15:00.000-08:00

12. Artemis4
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Lee, Kip, and a man who sells coffee in the Temple (!) stick their fingers into a crack at the base of a column of the Temple of Artemis to feel the column gently rocking in the late afternoon wind. Feeling this huge structure moving against your fingers is an amazing and somewhat disconcerting sensation. That these columns have stood for over 1,800 years is truly awe-inspiring.

The Cella

2005-03-07T03:14:00.000-08:00

13. Artemis5
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here, long ago, there would have stood a large statue of Artemis, the Greek and Roman goddess of animals, childbirth, and fertility. (She was also the sister of Apollo—the god of the sun, of medicine, and of poetry.) Artemis was the patron goddess of Jerash, which explains the extensive nature of her temple and the long and elaborate Sacred Way leading up to it. Note the arch at the top of the ruin: these seemingly gravity-defying, fragile-looking constructions are in fact exceedingly sturdy, as attested by the fact so many of them still survive.

North Tetrapylon

2005-03-07T03:13:00.000-08:00

14. North Tetrapylon
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

These interesting structures marked places where roads converged. This one also probably doubled as an impressive entry to the area containing the Northern Theater.

Yet Another Amphitheater

2005-03-07T03:12:00.000-08:00

15. Amphiteater
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

We are no longer in Jerash here, but at another, massive amphitheater in the middle of downtown Amman—Jordan's capital. I think this one could seat something like 8,000 people.

Friends

2005-03-07T03:10:00.000-08:00

16. Kip and Kari
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here are Kip and Kari, our companions, friends, hosts, and guides in Jordan. Thanks, guys: it was great!

The best picture of Lee and Faith ever

2005-03-07T03:09:00.000-08:00

17. Perfect!
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Faith is at least four times more photogenic than Lee, so the proportions here are just about right.

Oh Well....

2005-03-07T03:08:00.000-08:00

18. Faith and Lee
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here's a better, Faith-composed version.

Temple of Hercules

2005-03-07T03:07:00.000-08:00

19. Temple of Hercules
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

There is not much left of this temple on the mountain overlooking Amman, and yet it is still fascinating to look at. I guess nothing—no matter how strong—lasts forever.

Ummayed Castle

2005-03-07T03:06:00.000-08:00

20. Ummayed Castle
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This small castle was built by the Ummayads, a family that ruled the Islamic empire in the 7th and 8th centuries AD. It stands on the same plateau containing the Temple of Hercules and the museum with the Dead Sea Scrolls. (see below.)

Dead Sea Scroll Fragments

2005-03-07T03:05:00.000-08:00

21. Dead Sea Scroll Fragments
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

There are thousands and thousands of fragments in existence, but here's one from the museum at the Citadel in Amman. The Scrolls, discovered in jars in caves in the 20th century, include copies of Biblical books as well as new material unique to a sect, probably Essenes, that lived at Qumran. This sect believed a final war between good and evil was imminent, and when the Jews revolted against Rome in 70 AD it seems they went off to fight. Alas, the end of the world had not arrived—except for them.

Dead Sea Jars

2005-03-07T03:03:00.000-08:00

22. Dead Sea Jars
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Exactly who hid the scrolls is uncertain, but many people believe the Essenes at Qumran, which is in the same area the scrolls were found, buried them there for safekeeping during the war with Rome.

Really Big Flag

2005-03-07T03:02:00.000-08:00

23. Big Flag
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This huge Jordanian flag is supposedly the largest flying flag in the world.

Monastery Church

2005-03-07T03:00:00.000-08:00

24. Monastery1
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The ruins of the church that served the monks on Mount Nebo are now covered with a steel roof. The church is around 1,500 years old.

Monastery Mosaic

2005-03-07T02:59:00.000-08:00

25. Monastery2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Pretty.

Lee Looks Over the Promised Land

2005-03-07T02:58:00.000-08:00

26. Monastery.3
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Okay—this isn't really the Promised Land: Jerusalem, Bethlehem, etc. are more to the left but everything (except a faint glimmer from the Dead Sea) was obscured by a thick undercloud of smog that filled the Jordan Valley: not something Moses had to deal with, fortunately.

Lee and Moses (?)

2005-03-07T02:56:00.000-08:00

27. Monastery4
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This, supposedly, is the spot where Moses spied the Promised Land then died. Some sources say he's buried somewhere on Mt. Nebo, others that his bones were taken someplace else. This spot, in any case, feels as pleasant a place as any for kicking back and giving up the ghost.

Three Taxi Drivers

2005-03-07T02:51:00.000-08:00

Taxi drivers have something of a bad reputation here. Some of them are downright grumpy, pushy, demanding, and will even jump out of their cabs and follow you if you don’t give them as much money as they want. Their tendency to do this, however, is partially dependent on how you carry yourself. The more you know about what you’re doing, the less likely you are to have any trouble. (But then again, Faith and I have had very little trouble with drivers, despite the fact we rarely know what we’re doing! So go figure!)

Having said this, many cab drivers are wonderful people. One driver I had—who took me all the way from Maadi (far southern Cairo) to Heliopolis (far northern Cairo) for 25 L.E. (a little over $4)—talked with me the whole way about politics (“why do they kill the children?”), about family (he has two wives and eight children), and about economics (he teaches during the day and drives a cab at night to support his family). He also told me about his rather less-inspiring divide-and-conquer strategy of dealing with his wives. “If one wife causes too much trouble,” he says, “I send her home to her family. That way, she learns her lesson while I still have the other wife to take care of things at home.” I agreed that this was clever....

Another taxi driver I met told me about his life: how he had worked a long time in England for an export company then retired to Egypt. He claimed he did not need the money from his driving—that he did it just to keep himself occupied. We had a very nice conversation, and his claim appeared confirmed when, after pulling to a stop before our apartment building, he smiled and said, “we are friends: you do not need to pay your friends.” I , however, insisted, and paid him nonetheless. An extremely kind man. (And, by the way, I also expect this to be the last time a taxi driver actually ASKS me NOT to pay him!)

The last taxi driver I’ll mention was another absolutely delightful person. It was about dusk when he picked us up and the call to prayer was echoing through the streets of Al-Korba (a neighborhood not far from where we live). As he was driving us through the streets and intersections, I noticed that he had a bag between his legs filled with slips of paper which he kept pulling out, looking at, mumbling over, then replacing. I did not look too closely, thinking maybe he was memorizing Quranic verses. I was, however, a little concerned. Because he was doing all this while driving, he kept having to adjust the wheel with his elbows or just one distracted hand and several times I was tempted to reach out and help steady the car as we maneuvered through a couple busy intersections. Finally, as we neared our home, he smiled at me and handed me one of the slips of paper: on one side were words written in English, on the other words written in Arabic. We both laughed: he was literally studying English while driving a taxi! I helped him with the pronunciations of several words, and he told me that now, if his teacher says he is pronouncing a word wrong, he can say, “no! YOU are wrong!” We had a good laugh at this, and by the time he dropped us off I was almost wishing I had offered to keep helping him out. He was such a delightful person, and I was deeply moved by his eagerness to learn and improve his situation. He’s the sort of person Egypt needs to change for. People like him—kind, energetic, willing to learn—deserve more opportunities, not less. I dearly hope that he and Egypt can succeed.

Attack of the Killer Kid-Shoes

2005-03-07T02:50:00.000-08:00

I really need to go through Faith’s e-mails and find more of these. The things that happen with her kids are so funny. Here’s one story to whet your appetite:

FAITH: So, I came up with this great idea (so I thought) for the senses. Last week we worked on smell. So, I had items for the kids to smell. Perfume, air spray, and I thought it would be funny to have each child take off their own shoe and smell it. They loved it. But, then, one of the children, Tamer, decided to bring his shoe up to me to smell. So I did. Well, you know how kids are. If one child gets to do it, everybody else wants to too. Well, at that point, you would have thought I was cattle feed poured into a trough and they were all hungry cattle because they all at once proceeded to stampede me and shove their tiny little shoes in my face, waving their small but determined hands back and forth. I could not see beyond an inch from my nose and I thought in order to get them to clear out I would have to smell each and every one. So I started to and then realized that they weren't going away. They were all yelling franticly, "SMELL MINE, SMELL MINE!!!" And slowly I was being crushed by the masses, with tiny shoes bobbing back and forth almost taking out my eyes. I could barely see past the little arms and lethal weapons to notice that one of the dada's had entered at her own risk THANK GOD!!! and was able to take the attention away from me to her. Slowly, the mass started to exit back into single children in their pursuit of finding their desk. A few strayed behind to have me turn their lethal weapons back into transportation devices.

What an adventure!

Locust Madness, and the Coming of Winter

2005-03-07T02:49:00.000-08:00

While we were in Alexandria, something amazing happened in Cairo: the city was attacked by a swarm of locusts! This is amusing not only in itself, but also because I had just recently finished a short story with my seniors (“A Mild Attack of Locusts,” by Doris Lessing) in which a farm is virtually destroyed by a locusts. When I got back, they asked me how I knew the locusts would come to Cairo: I said I didn’t know, but that my assigning that story must have caused the swarm to come. Maybe, I suggested, we should next read a short story about a huge earthquake? No, no, no, they shouted! Pretty funny.

Winter arrived about the same time we returned. Alexandria was cooler and much wetter than Cairo, and it rained there off and on the entire three days we were there. Now it became much cooler in Cairo, too. More blankets were thrown on beds, jackets and sweaters were purchased or retrieved from closets, and suddenly everyone was bundled up. The classrooms are not heated, so coats were common. We actually ran our heater in our apartment fairly regularly. As I write this, however (early March), it has begun to warm back up. Though you can still wear sweaters, more than one layer is usually not required.

Can summer’s heat be far behind?

City by the Sea

2005-03-07T02:47:00.000-08:00

Way back in November we took a train-ride through the Nile Delta to visit the coastal city of Alexandria and meet up with an Egyptian friend from school, Dalia, who spends much of her time there. The ride was fascinating. Cairo is very brown and gritty, and even the trees and plants look dusty and depressed. The Delta, however, was lush and green, and the contrast was very pleasing. Farms and orchards and small towns were everywhere on both sides of the tracks, and it was amazing to think that human beings—even the very ancestors of the people we saw working in their fields—had seeded, tended, and harvested crops here for thousands and thousands of years. There was little sign of modern farm equipment, no barns, no large farmhouses. Most of the work seemed to be by hand or with the help of animals. People clearly were not rich, but they were surviving. Cairo, for two hours, seemed like another world.

Alexandria is a city of around 3 million people spread in an arc beside the Mediterranean Sea. The city was founded by Alexander the Great over 2,300 years ago, and is famous for (among other things) once housing a wondrous library which was later on destroyed. Much of ancient Alexandria is under water now, but what remains is wonderful—lively, clean, and filled with the scent of the sea—and proved a welcome change from the dry and noisy bustle of Cairo.

First, there are far fewer people in Alexandria, so the sense of crowding is far less overwhelming. It also helps that the city is stretched out along the water, so that just by traveling along the Corniche (the main road which fronts the sea) you can get just about anywhere while having this huge expanse of space on one side. Second, there are laws in Alexandria against excessive honking so the noise pollution is far less odious than in Cairo. (In Cairo, honking is continuous and, indeed, appears to be a major mode of self-expression.) Just being beside the sea was one of the highlights of our visit. It was vast and cool and as we walked along the Corniche (on a broad sidewalk more or less regularly punctuated by covered islands of concrete roofs with benches underneath) we were pleasantly sprayed with seamist as the waves pounded on the rocks below.

There was a different mood in Alexandria, as well. Less conservative, more cosmopolitan, and more open. Especially along the Corniche (resting on those “islands”) were, at all hours of the day and night, men and women talking, holding hands, leaning close together. This was not something we had seen in Cairo. Or maybe it has nothing to do with conservatism at all—maybe it’s the sea that brings the romance out. (A further interesting note: most all the women we saw engaging in these encounters had their hair covered.)

The sea certainly had a significant effect on us. Our hotel room overlooked it, and the first morning there we just lay there in bed, watching the waves come rolling grayly in for well over an hour, the large windows of our hotel room wide open to allow the fresh, wet wind to rush inside and whirl around the room. I kept imagining ancient Greeks setting sail, or cruising beyond the shoreline, or arriving here from somewhere farther north, from the the island of Delos (the birthplace of Apollo), or from Athens. Though the shore has obviously changed, the sea, I realized, probably looked no different.

Some things do not change.

Aside from some very good food and visiting with Dalia, the two highlights of our trip were the Greco-Roman museum and the new, modern Library. At the museum we saw some mummies (one of which, rather disturbingly, had a blackened, curling toe exposed among its crumbling bandages) and got a close up look at some good statues, including one of the Roman philosopher Marcus Aurelius. (One of Lee’s favorite ancient dead guys.) We also joined gazes with a few of the famous Roman-era mummy masks found at the town of Fayoum. These masks were made of wooden boards with the faces of the dead painted on them. The masks were then placed upon the mummies. The faces on the masks can be quite realistic, looking back at you with large eyes and what appears to be a sad and soulful expression, as if they still are sorry for having to be dead and hope we still remember them. Their brown or olive faces, curly dark hair, and penetrating eyes reminded both of us of people we have seen, alive and well, in Egypt.

Even the dead are, in some strange sense, still living.

A good link for the portraits (in French): http://portraits.fayoum.free.fr/

The new Library, however, was perhaps the highlight of our trip. It is a massive, tilted circle of glass and concrete that, supposedly, can be seen reflecting light far out at sea. Behind the windows rise tier on tier of floors—all under one huge slanted roof supported by tall columns—containing books, reading tables, computers, and librarians behind counters and in offices. The stairs go up and up, level after level, and the library will eventually have 8 million books. In the lower level, meanwhile, there is a fine museum containing many artifacts. After exploring a bit, we decided we needed to actually USE this place, and so we found some books, a table, and just sat and talked and read most of the day. It was great.

In case you want to learn more, here is a link to the library’s website:

http://www.bibalex.org/English/index.aspx

Egyptian Money

2005-01-20T02:46:00.000-08:00

EgyptianMoney2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

FYI, 100 Egyptian pounds is roughly equal to $16. Here in Egypt, it is a lot of money.

Egyptian Money (side 2)

2005-01-20T02:44:00.000-08:00

EgyptianMoney1
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Just in case you're curious.

One View From Our Apartment

2005-01-20T02:41:00.000-08:00

OurView2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

How anyone finds a place to park around here is an unsolvable mystery. 95% of the spaces are always filled, no matter the day or the time. Thank goodness we don't have to drive!

Heading Home

2005-01-20T02:37:00.000-08:00

HeadingHome
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Students begin gathering to jump on the buses and escape to their homes. Usually the play area is much more crowded than this.

Playground

2005-01-20T02:36:00.000-08:00

Playground
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here is where students can play some soccor, hang out with friends, have school-wide weekly assemblies, and wait for the buses to come. A new rule saying students could only play soccor during PE--and not during breaks--nearly caused a riot.

English Staff Room

2005-01-20T02:34:00.000-08:00

EnglishStaffRoom
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here is the home base for English teachers in the High School. This is our refuge from the trials and tribulations of teaching. Sing-alongs, music, and eating junk food are common occurances here. Lee's home away from home.

Mafdy and Class 11A

2005-01-20T02:31:00.000-08:00

Mafdy and Class 11A
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Mafdy loves weight-lifting and is probaby destined to be the next Lou Ferrigno. 11A is an extremely bright class of mostly girls and 4 or 5 boys. The work they hand in often goes far beyond what I ask for, which is fun.

Abdullah and Class 12B

2005-01-20T02:30:00.000-08:00

Abdullah and Class 12B
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Abdullah and the rest of 12B are ready to be done with school and get going on their next vacation. Abdullah, however, manages to show some signs of life.

11C sees the camera

2005-01-20T02:29:00.000-08:00

11C sees camera
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

A lot of students are missing today because it's the last day of class before a big break. Those who show up, however, seem okay with the sudden appearance of a digital camera.

Mr. Lee and 11C

2005-01-20T02:28:00.000-08:00

Mr. Lee and 11C
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

11C is one of the 11th grade classes I teach. This class has 18 boys and 5 girls in it, and they can get a bit rowdy. Some firm words, however, usually gets them into line, at least when they realize I'm serious. A fun, high-spirited group of kids.

Mr. Lee and 12D

2005-01-20T02:25:00.000-08:00

Lee and 12D
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here are a few of the students of 12D with their English teacher. This class is the toughest to teach, but they are also the ones that make me feel the most welcome when I walk into the room. From left to right they are Nader, Mahmoud (back row far left), Hesham, Ahmed (back row second from left), Marwan, Mahi, Karim, and Sandra. The hats are not props--it IS cool here in the winter time!

Alaa and Roger

2005-01-20T02:18:00.000-08:00

Alaa and Roger
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Alaa could speak no English when she came into Faith's class and now she speaks it quite well. (Good for her!) Roger (pronounced, French-wise, as row-zhay) is very smart and has a memory like a steel trap--especially if Miss Faith promises to make cookies next week.

Farah and Ramy

2005-01-20T02:14:00.000-08:00

Farah and Ramy
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Faith thinks Farah has the most beautiful eyes of any child in the class. Ramy is the elder statesman of the class due to his seasoned 5 1/2 years of life experience.

Nora and Joycie

2005-01-20T02:12:00.000-08:00

Nora and Joycie
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Nora is the class drama queen (and thus Faith's kindred spirit), while Joycie LOVES getting to wash her hands.

"Little Man" and Rania

2005-01-20T02:10:00.000-08:00

LittleMan and Rania
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

"Little Man" is Faith's name for little Abdullah, who is the two-year-old son of Rania, one of the other KG teachers. Rania and Faith have become very good friends and we have spent a couple days with her, her husband Mohamed, and their other two children Abdel-Rahman and Habeeba. They are a wonderful family and Lee and Mohamed have had some great conversations together. Abdullah enjoys helping Lee learn a little Arabic--like the word for "ball," which is "kora" (not sure about the exact spelling).

Miss Photogenic Sarah

2005-01-20T02:07:00.000-08:00

Miss Photogenic Sarah
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This kid should be doing commercials!

Beautiful Tamer

2005-01-20T02:06:00.000-08:00

Beautiful Tamer
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The women in the KG department sometimes have trouble disciplining Tamer because they are so smitten with him. He is also extremely smart, which means he is a double-threat who gets away with more than he should.

Omar and Rita

2005-01-20T02:02:00.000-08:00

Omar and Rita
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Rita is famous for wanting to be Faith. She plays Miss Faith at home and also helps out in class with discipline. She is a very helpful little girl!

Sara and Miss Faith

2005-01-20T02:00:00.000-08:00

Sara and Miss Faith
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Absolutely TOO CUTE!!!

Every day Faith kisses and hugs all her kids, and they love it. She is such a wonderful teacher!

Silly!

2005-01-20T01:57:00.000-08:00

Silly!
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Kindergarten is not all work and tears: here Farrah gets in some silly-time while Alaa watches.

Mina Says Hello

2005-01-20T01:56:00.000-08:00

MinaSaysHello
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Faith absolutely adores this kid. I told her she should collect some hair or something so we could clone him for her. (One of Faith's favorite things about him is that, although he is Egyptian, when he speaks English he sounds Italian. He is also the one who said he would "wait for her" until he and Faith could get married.)

Faith's KG1 Class

2005-01-20T01:53:00.000-08:00

Faith's KG1 Class
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

One day Faith had no children--the next she had 18!!! And here they (or most of them) are!

Faith and Lee

2005-01-20T01:46:00.000-08:00

Faith and Lee
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

We are SO cute!

Faith close up

2005-01-20T01:45:00.000-08:00

Faith2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

:-)

Faith

2005-01-20T01:44:00.000-08:00

Faith
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Faith isn't crazy about this picture, but I think she looks cool. Enjoy.

RAINSTORM!!!

2005-01-20T01:42:00.001-08:00

RAINSTORM!!!
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Yes, it does rain here in Egypt, and here's the proof! Cairo supposedly got rid of its drainage system as an insult to the British after Egypt gained its independence. I don't know if that's really true, but a hard rainstorm WILL flood much of Cairo.

DiningRoom

2005-01-20T01:42:00.000-08:00

DiningRoom
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Welcome to Faith and Lee's dining room! The big table is where we go to eat, drink, and become merry.

Messy Bedroom

2005-01-20T01:40:00.000-08:00

MessyBedroom
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here is where we attempt to sleep while being assaulted by the sounds of honking, wedding celebrations, car alarms, fighting cats, lost howling dogs, fire-crackers, shouting children, motorcycles, trucks, the nearby military academy's early morning drill, and, occassionally, drunken Americans.

Kitchen

2005-01-20T01:35:00.000-08:00

Kitchen
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

The kitchen is where we heat water, refrigerate things, and wash dishes. It is also where Faith makes WONDERFUL soups!!! (The white thing on the left-hand wall is the gas water heater for the sink.)

LivingRoom

2005-01-20T01:33:00.000-08:00

LivingRoom
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Here is a shot from our living room looking toward the dining room. If we didn't have Mariam, our cleaning lady, come once a week, I fear we would become buried in clutter.

Bathroom

2005-01-20T01:32:00.000-08:00

Bathroom
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

This is our bathroom--the bidet is on the left. How convenient! This is also the place where we have become much more intimate with our bowels, which seem to have taken on a life of their own here in Egypt.

Arafat Update

2004-11-12T07:05:00.000-08:00

The funeral began over an hour ago and now, looking out our window, I suddenly realize we can see a long line of white planes at the airport. I’ve never noticed this before: the airport must be filled. I don’t even remember being able to see parked planes from here. We are even closer to what is going on than I thought.

A few minutes after writing the above note, I saw a dark green plane taxiing. This may have been the French military jet taking off with Arafat’s body. The funeral, I think is over now. The plan next is to land in the Sinai, then fly him by helicopter to Ramallah. They are going to bury him in a kind of movable stone tomb so that, someday maybe, he can be easily moved to Jerusalem. For now, at least, the Israelis are denying this request.

BBC online says that Arafat’s body has left the airport. That must’ve been him.

It is now 4:45 pm here. I read that Arafat has been buried in Ramallah, his coffin besieged by thousands of his people. With Arafat gone and Bush safely ensconced in his second term, maybe now’s the time for a breakthrough for peace between Israel and the Palestinians. I’m not exactly holding my breath—especially since the Palestinians have a lot to work out amongst themselves first—but Arafat’s death may be a good thing for the region. I guess we’ll see.

Arafat is Here

2004-11-12T07:02:00.000-08:00

Yasser Arafat, the controversial leader of the Palestinians, died Thursday in a hospital outside Paris. Last night he was flown by helicopter to Cairo and his body is now resting a few miles from where we live. (We can see Cairo International Airport from our balcony.) The funeral will take place at a nearby mosque with at least 12 foreign ministers and heads of state attending from around the world. Today is also the first day of our week-long vacation for the El-Aida feast, which marks the end of the Ramadan season. Most of the American teachers are leaving town, and over half of them are unfortunate enough to have plane tickets for today. I hope they can get out, but I’m guessing they will be facing major delays because of the funeral and all the foreign visitors who will be landing for a few hours and then taking off again.

There is a marching band playing nearby, its drums rolling across the street from the vast Harbeya military college. I’m guessing they are practicing for the funeral. According to news reports, a military band will help escort Arafat’s body. President Mubarak has declared 3 days of official mourning in Egypt, where Arafat was born 75 years ago. The US Embassy, meanwhile, has recommended that Americans keep a low profile and avoid places where crowds or demonstrations might occur. We are quite happy with staying in our apartment for a couple days, working on the blog, reading (Faith is reading the 1,000+ page “Cairo Trilogy” by Nobel-prize winner Naguib Mahfouz, who is Egyptian), eating, and otherwise relaxing. I will be sure to include more updates on Arafat as events occur. The funeral is scheduled for 11:00 am, a little under 3 hours from now.

Terrorism (and Conspiracy Theory) Update

2004-11-12T07:01:00.000-08:00

Several Egyptians have been arrested in connection with the Taba bombings, and the government is saying a Palestinian living in Egypt (who was killed in the blast) was the ringleader. According to the government, this was a “primitive” operation carried out in response to events in Palestine. If so, this is “good” news for Egypt and for us: an isolated attack against Israel by a few first-time terrorists is a less destabilizing scenario than a new Al-Qaeda inspired or even orchestrated terrorist group out to overthrow the Egyptian government.

The country as a whole, meanwhile, has remained calm, and from what we hear there have been no mass cancellations from tourists. The fact that the attack was so near to Israel and targeted Israelis seems to have convinced most people this is more about the Arab-Israeli conflict than about Egypt itself. This still may not be correct, however. We should keep in mind that the Egyptian government has every reason to paint this tragedy as part of the Palestinian problem and not a problem in and about Egypt itself.

A NOTE on conspiracy theories: as most of you probably know, conspiracy theories are very popular in this part of the world. In fact, when asked if Israel might have organized the attack in Sinai against its own people to make Egypt look bad, President Mubarak said it was too early to know for certain who did it. The fact he couldn’t just come out and say “that’s ludicrous” is telling. In the minds of many people, the Israelis are capable of anything, including murdering their own people. Similarly, I talked with a student who suggested, as a theory, that the US government organized 9/11. I don’t think this student believed it, but it seemed to him a reasonable, if unlikely, theory that should not be ignored. One of Faith’s friends, meanwhile, honestly believes the story about the 4,000 Jews being warned to not come in to work in New York on 9/11. Just yesterday, I was talking to a student (one of my favorites) who was convinced that Bush was going to invade the entire Middle East, including Egypt, and take everything over. Other students have suggested the US wants to exterminate all Muslims.

Where do these theories come from? More importantly, WHY are they so popular? There are, I think, four main reasons:

First and most importantly, there is no free press here, while the Egyptian people have very few opportunities to know how their own government functions. Egyptians thus are at the mercy of an often inscrutable government, while Egypt as a whole seems at the mercy of vast forces beyond its control, forces often identified as related to--or actually AS--”the Jews” and/or America. (Often Jews are seen as pulling America’s strings here.) In short, accurate information and independent news sources can be very hard to come by, and in their absence all sorts of bizarre ideas arise to fill the blanks in.

Second, there is a great deal of pride in this part of the world. In the past, this region was very powerful and it makes no sense to people that this greatness could have failed without extensive back-stabbing, manipulation, and treachery on the part of outsiders.

Thirdly, Islam is, like Christianity, a universalistic religion. Everyone, according to Muslims, should be a Muslim, since Islam and the Quran were given to humankind by God as the one “straight path” they should follow. Muslims should thus be favored more highly by God than anyone. In the modern world, however, this favor is not evident with respect to economic, military, or cultural might. What went wrong? Conspiracy theories help provide a relatively comforting and unambiguous answer to this question.

Finally, Egypt HAS, of course, been manipulated and used by outsiders for centuries. Foreign rule of one kind or another was imposed on Egypt for some 2,000 years, while in modern times Egypt was ruled by the British. The memories of foreign control and domination are still fresh in people’s minds here, memories supported vigorously by the schools—including ours. The feeling that Egypt is being controlled by outsiders almost seems to have become a habit here.

That said, I’ve come to the conclusion that the best thing I can do is, when given the chance, attempt to problematize some of these theories with a few well-chosen questions. For instance, “if Israel orchestrated the 9/11 attacks, why does Osama Bin Laden claim credit for them? Doesn’t that imply that Osama Bin Laden is, in one sense or another, working for Israel?” To the girl who thought we were going to invade the entire Middle East I wondered whether or not the U.S. could afford it. People would violently resist, after all, and the cost of fighting ten insurgencies in ten different countries would be far, far higher than the value of the oil America would seize. I don’t know how well these questions work, but my goal is not to get people to have a particular opinion. I only want them to ask more questions and recognize that things are more complicated than they are assuming.

I have to add one other thing: the people who say these things are not raving, hateful lunatics: they are very kind adults and kids who have treated us wonderfully and for whom both Faith and I feel a great deal of affection. If you think this doesn’t make any sense, then maybe I’ve helped problematize some of your theories as well.

School During Ramadan—and Vacation Plans

2004-11-12T07:00:00.000-08:00

The past month we have been having school with reduced hours. We were coming in an hour later and leaving two hours earlier than usual, while classes were 35 minutes apiece. The general pattern for Muslims during Ramadan involves, of course, not eating and drinking during daylight hours, followed by a big feast at sunset. Another big meal occurs just before dawn. Students would generally get home from school, sleep a few hours, then be up till all hours of the night. Visits to and from relatives are common at this time, and the atmosphere is festive, with lights, streamers, and giant lanterns (lanterns being an Egyptian symbol for Ramadan) everywhere. You also see a lot of open Qurans, since this is a time for people to come closer not only to their families but also to God. There is also a great deal of giving, with local charities receiving the equivalent of millions of dollars in donations.

For Faith and I, meanwhile, we’re glad that Ramadan is ending and are looking forward to getting back to a normal schedule and routine at school after the weeklong break for feast of El Fitr, which is the climax of the Ramadan season. Shortened days sound fun in the abstract, but in practice the hurried atmosphere and alternately exhausted and hyper students felt about as draining as the normal schedule did. In addition, it was harder to get things done. Still, it WAS nice to get home about 1:30 every day. When we get back to school on November 21, we’ll have a little less than 5 weeks of school before the big Christmas break, when Faith and I are hoping to go to Greece for our vacation. We have another vacation already planned for next week. We are taking a train to Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great in the fourth century BC. We will visit the huge new library there, a Roman amphitheater, and the Greco-Roman museum. We have an Egyptian friend who spends a great deal of time there, and she’s going to show us around and is helping make arrangements. We will leave early Tuesday morning and come back on Friday. Needless to say, we are VERY excited. We have been doing little else but working and recovering-from-working, and are ready for a change of scene and pace. We look forward to being tourists.

Faith’s Play-by-Play Fourth-Floor Traffic Report

2004-11-12T06:56:00.000-08:00

[Traffic during Ramadan can get crazy at certain times of the day. It got particularly crazy last week before the hugely important soccer match between arch-rivals El Ahly and Zamalek football clubs, who played right here in Heliopolis. Here’s Faith’s description of what she saw outside.]

I just want to share with you right now what is going on outside my window as I type. Ok, there is a huge traffic jam outside my window right now. I have just moved outside to watch it happen as I am writing this to you. We live on a street called Fareed Samika. It has two streets running each one way. So, what that means is, if you look out my apartment building, there is the street with the traffic going to the right, then a park in the middle, then a one way street with the traffic going to the left. In most places in Egypt they do not have traffic lights, as is the case with the problem that is going on right now. Fareed Samika intersects with Amr Ibn Yasser. At the intersection right now the traffic has not moved the whole time I have been out here. The reason is because all the cars are trying to cross at the same time causing a large and unmovable gridlock. There are people standing with their doors open, with one leg still inside the car ready to move at any moment.

Now, on my side of the street, the cars are going the wrong way down a one way street hoping they will be able to move. But, unfortunately, they are causing part of the gridlock at the end of the street. Now, our porter Waheed is directing people to go down the side street next to our building. (We live on a corner.) He is trying to direct the cars that are going the wrong way to not go to the intersection. I get the biggest kick out of him. He laughs all the time and I can hear his laughter as he directs this insanity. Oh, there goes a police car. Okay, traffic is starting to move but there are still people trying to go down the one way street the wrong way. Did I say anything about the honking? Egyptians love to honk. They have a whole subculture in horn honking here. Right now, most of the horn honking consists of laying your hand on the horn and not taking it off for 10 to 15 seconds, somehow making them think that they can move traffic by doing this. I was told by one of my coworkers that you can even swear a certain way with your horn and you can also swear with your lights.

Okay, there are 3 more egyptians standing down below my apartment trying to direct traffic. Okay, they now have jumped back into their vehicles and are on their merry way.... to the end of the sidewalk. One of the reasons why traffic is so bad is because it is 5:04 p.m. and everyone is trying to get home to break fast and have what they term as "breakfast". It is their first meal of the day. Everybody gets a bit more tense during Ramadan, which is understandable. Okay, now we have a large yelling spree across the park going on between a taxi driver and another motorist. Okay, now they are done. Now there is a young man in a orange shirt running down the street with what seems to be a red flag. Okay, he directs, then he runs on. I think he really is not anyone official. [This is Lee: red is the color of one of the soccer teams: this guy was probably an El Ahly fan. Most of my students are Ahly fans, and some of my boys were VERY rambunctious the day of the match. Fortunately, their team won against Zamalek 4-2. I would’ve probably gone with some of them, but we had Faith’s birthday dinner that night.]

Did I also mention that Egyptians love to help others? They will help direct our school bus at times around donkeys with carts, horses with carts, men on bikes peddling bananas, passed doubled parked cars, you name it. Oh,,,,,,,,,, it looks like Waheed has given up directing traffic and is now sitting down on a short concrete wall having a cup of tea with his wife and a smoke,,,, or is that a pen? It doesn't look like it is getting any shorter. I am on the 4th floor ya know. I think that is a pen. Okay, now we have the standing with my door open with one foot inside and rolling my car down the street. Okay,,, now one man is taking both feet out of the car and is not hopping but walking and pushing. Traffic is now lightening up on my side of the street but across the park is another story. It is now 5:24 p.m. and getting dark as we speak. In a few minutes it will be completely dead out here. Not a soul around.

Oh, they are finally moving across the park. Even though it is dark, people do not use their headlights all the time. They mostly use them to signal. Today, when we were going to school, we had to take a different route because President Mubarak was flying to Dubai for a funeral. They close off streets when he goes anywhere. Aha!!! I was wrong, that is a cigarette in Waheed’s hand and not a pen. I just saw the red ash as he puffed on it. Okay. Traffic is now under control and moving in the right direction. No more gridlock. What was happening for the last 1/2 hour almost seems nonexistent now. Maybe I should have some soup to tied me over until my Birthday "Stuff My Face As Much As I Can And Loosen The Belt Fest" at 9:30?

[We had, by the way, a very nice birthday dinner for Faith at a restaurant called El Shabrowey. About a dozen Americans and Egyptians showed up, the food was good, and we had fun. Faith is now 37.]

One of the Most Terrifying and Exciting Experiences of My Life

2004-11-12T06:52:00.000-08:00

So about three weeks ago I invited my seniors out for a movie. About a dozen showed up, and we were “treated” to the shenanigans of a horde of giant man-eating snakes in the destined-to-be-classic thriller “Anacondas.” We all agreed that it was pretty bad and not scary at all, though the theater popcorn was good. Next we went to Hardee’s (which was in the same mall as the movie theater) where a student insisted I let him buy me some curly fries and a drink. A nice time, in short, was had by all, and if the night had ended there I would not have much of a story to tell. (About the neatest thing up to that point was seeing them all out of uniform and dressed like normal, individual, real people: that was fun.)

So here’s what happened next. Two of my students had previously mentioned they owned motorcycles and that they loved riding them through Cairo. (Most of their writing assignments seem to feature motorcycles in one way or another.) I didn’t entirely believe them, but when they pulled up before the mall in leather jackets and on dirt-bikes, I had to admit I was mistaken. One of them, Ahmed, asked how I had gotten to the mall. When I told him by taxi, he asked how much I had paid and grimaced when I told him. “Too much,” he said, “I’ll take you home after the movie.” “No, that’s okay,” I said. “I’m not really into motorcycles.” “No,” he said, “you’ll like it—very safe.” I did not budge, however, and we went into the movie.

After the movie was over, Ahmed repeated his intention of giving me a ride home and bought me my food at Hardee’s. I began to waver. I realized this was very important to him. I also began to rationalize as follows: first, Lee, think of riding around this city in taxis: that’s not the safest, most comfortable thing to do, either. Also, you’ve seen people on motorcycles and scooters before, and it seems a lot like being in taxi, albeit there’s certainly less room for error. Next, if you are EVER going to do ANYTHING like this, you should probably risk it with this kid. His senses and reflexes are in their prime, he knows the city well, he appears extremely confident, and you could certainly put your life in worse hands. Finally, and this really was the clincher, I said to myself, now, Lee, really: you are so cautious most of the time, and that’s great, but here you are in Cairo, Egypt with a chance to take a motorcycle ride through the city. Can you REALLY pass up that opportunity? Wouldn’t it make a good story? Won’t it be fun? And even if it’s SLIGHTLY more risky than a taxi, isn’t it still unlikely anything bad will happen? And besides, it would mean a lot to your student, who will clearly be offended if you don’t trust him.

And so, at last, I agreed, and we left Hardee’s together and, after bidding everyone else farewell, walked over to where he had parked. Ahmed jumped on the bike, fired it up, and I hopped up behind him, hugged him with my forearms on either side, and waited—now completely helpless—to see what happened next as we pulled out into traffic....

Alas, my friends and family, words at this point fail me. I was expecting Ahmed to simply drive me home. I was very, very, very mistaken. You all, of course, have seen those movies with big car chases in them. Well this, my friends, was EXACTLY like that. Within seconds of pulling out into traffic and going through a turnabout, Ahmed gunned it and before I knew it we were whizzing between buses, weaving in and out of traffic at high speed, and alternately accelerating and then braking so fast my heart felt like it was bouncing back and forth horizontally at the end of some completely crazy bungie cord. We would be caught in heavy traffic—my breathing spaces—then suddenly Ahmed would spot an opening and open up the throttle and we’d plunge through it like a bullet. He used the usual Cairene calculation in these matters, which is, if you can fit, you can go. (Lanes being entirely theoretical constructs here.) More than once we were between two buses or trucks or cars with maybe a foot or two to spare. At one point, on a relatively open stretch of road, he asked me, “do you like wheelies?” “No,” I said as calmly and as firmly as I could, “no, I do NOT like wheelies.” Ahmed then proceeded to take the front wheel of the motorcycle off the ground with one quick burst of acceleration and we enjoyed the unique pleasure of riding on a single wheel for maybe 50 yards. When the wheel at last came down, we noticed a large speed bump quickly approaching. “You like air?” Ahmed asked. “No,” I said as calmly and as firmly as I could, “no, I do NOT like air.” “BRRRRRRRRR!” screams the machine and suddenly there’s a tremendous jolt and we no longer have EITHER wheel upon the asphalt....

There’s one other detail I should note here: I could not see Ahmed’s expression, but I knew he was completely immersed in what he was doing. In the pauses between his feats of cycling prowess, and often a couple seconds before doing something dramatic, he would quickly cock his head to one side, as if he were cracking a kink out of his neck, or as if he were a boxer staying loose just before plunging back into the ring. I became unaccountably fascinated by these movements, possibly because I found in them comforting signs of confidence. In which case I suspect they helped me keep it together as we roared and braked our weaving, eye-stinging, vehicle-choked, exhaust-drenched, wind-whipped way along the lanes and freeways of the “mother of the world.” (As Cairo, sometimes, is called.)

Meanwhile, to return to the chase itself, we abruptly take a right-hand turn and, to my immeasurable relief, I recognize the street. “My flat is on the next street on the right,” I say to Ahmed. “The next street?” he says—then BRRRRRRRRRR, he accelerates again, charging between the one narrow lane of solid traffic on our left and the unbroken row of parked cars on our right at probably 50 miles per hour until we reach my street, make a right hand turn, and, a block later, come to a stop in front of my apartment building. I dismount, my heart still racing and my legs weak but not quite shaking, give Ahmed a hug, and thank him for not killing me. Ahmed is mildly amused by this, and I suddenly realize that, for him, it was all in a night’s work. He then wished me goodnight, turned around, and rumbled off into the night.

I was relieved to find him alive and well at school the following Sunday, and felt very close to him, being affected by an irrational conviction that he had actually saved my life. He said that we should do that again sometime, and this is what I told him: “Ahmed,” I said, “I want to thank you. That was one of the most exciting and terrifying experiences of my life, and I will remember it until the day I die. I truly, truly thank you for that. But I will never, ever, ever do that again.”

Looking back, I now realize that feeling my feet back on solid ground that night was one of the peak moments of my life. I felt both incredibly relieved and totally overjoyed at the same time. A similar mix of feelings characterized the ride itself: it was absolutely exhilarating and terrifying all at once. In fact, it was SO exhilarating and so surreal that my fear, though very real, never became panic. I think a part of me was too caught up in disbelief to panic. There was also SO MUCH going on that I did not have time to lose my cool. I did manage to ponder the consequences of disaster: a car switching lanes suddenly in front of us; a tire blowing out; Ahmed losing control after that speed bump coming up and wiping out, sending us grating and rolling along the roadway for who knows how many yards before we stop. I found a couple moments to consider the irony of my being killed on a motorcycle. With all due respect to motorcyclists, I have always passionately disliked these machines, considering them unacceptably dangerous. I once ripped into Faith for taking a ride on a motorcycle during the Sturgis Rally one summer. (And that was a normal motorcycle: Ahmed’s was a dirt or racing type of bike.) To her credit, though, Faith was not angry at me at all. Nor was I angry at myself. Because I survived intact, I was very happy I had done it, though in the hours after I came home I became, as the euphoria died down, more and more astonished and alarmed at what had happened. Even then, however, I was glad. Especially since, as I told Ahmed, never again: this meant that I had dodged this particular bullet now forever. To adapt a phrase of the French thinker Voltaire, “once a philosopher, twice an idiot.”

Besides, I guess you only live once.

Update

2004-10-08T10:47:00.000-07:00

I’ve been following the news from Taba for a couple hours now, and here’s what I can report. Last night it appears a truck drove into the Hilton there and exploded, killing an uncertain number of people and collapsing part of the hotel. A second bomb—probably carried on a suicide-bomber—exploded by the hotel pool. A short time later, two more explosions went off at resort areas to the south, also resulting in deaths and injuries. The main targets of the attacks were Israelis on vacation, though numerous Egyptians have been killed and injured as well. (This fits a typical pattern: in the embassy bombings in Tanzania and Kenya back in 1998, for instance, far more local people than Americans died.) The near simultaneous nature of the attacks instantly brings to mind Al Qaeda or Al Qaeda-inspired groups. Suggestions that these attacks are directly connected to ongoing fighting in Gaza do not, right now, seem terribly credible. It would be very hard for a Palestinian group to get across the border and stage such a complex attack, which also would have required extensive planning. It seems more likely this attack was organized and carried out at least in large part by Egyptians, though we obviously need to learn more before passing any judgments. Egypt reportedly has begun rounding up “suspects,” and I can only hope they’re getting the right people. One of the worst aspects of this situation is all the innocent people who will probably be hurt as the government cracks down. I am also concerned because a luxury hotel full of Israelis SHOULD be one of the most heavily defended and secured regions of the country. Terrorists hitting such a target successfully is not encouraging.

Having said this, I don’t want anyone to worry about us TOO much at this point. As I’ve written recently in a couple e-mails, we're being careful, while it’s still very unlikely we'll be caught up in any troubles. Egypt is a huge country with lots of foreigners, tourist sites, installations, etc. The list of potential targets runs easily in the thousands. There is, of course, still risk, and we're doing our best to assess it continually, but the odds are very much in our favor. This does NOT mean, of course, we are not concerned. We are thinking very carefully about what this means for us, and, as Presidents sometimes say, all options are on the table.

I will write more when I know more. Faith and I hope everyone is well and send our love.

Embassy Message

2004-10-08T09:07:00.000-07:00

Here's the main part of the message we received from the American Embassy 3 1/2 hours ago:

Date: October 8, 2004

To: The American Community

From: Embassy of the United States, Cairo
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WARDEN MESSAGE

On Thursday evening, October 7, an explosion severely damaged the Hilton Hotel in Taba, on the northeast coast of Sinai, causing a number of fatalities and injuries. There are indications that the blast was a terrorist attack; however, investigations on the cause of the explosion are underway. Other explosions were reported to have taken place elsewhere on the east coast of Sinai, including one in the area of the town of Nuweiba in which there were several reported casualties.

While there is no indication that U.S. citizens were the targets of these attacks, Americans in Egypt are urged to exercise caution and remain vigilant. U.S. citizens should avoid travel on the east coast of Sinai north of Sharm el Sheikh, particularly in the vicinity of the towns of Taba and Nuweiba. Travelers outside of Cairo may experience delays due to additional Egyptian security presence.

Bombings in Egypt

2004-10-08T08:19:00.000-07:00

So I just woke up to find there’s finally been another major terrorist attack in Egypt after seven or eight years of relative peace. We are safe here in our Cairo apartment, and right now I’m (Faith is still sleeping) just reading news stories and waiting for an e-mail from the embassy that, I expect, should be coming soon. What we will do for the time being is wait and see how things develop. I will be sure to keep everyone posted.