Monday, March 07, 2005

Change!?!?

A lot has happened on the political front recently. Elections in Iraq and Palestine, political protests against Syria in Lebanon (which Syria dominates) which led to the resignation of the pro-Syrian Prime Minister and cabinet, and, most startling of all, President Mubarak’s announcement—live on Egyptian television—that the Presidential election this fall will be open to all of Egypt’s legalized parties. (Before now, the more or less powerless Parliament nominated the President, while Egyptians merely voted yes or no on the appointment.) If the government follows through on this, it will be a major development. Although the most powerful non-governmental party—the Muslim Brotherhood—is currently outlawed, not all the approved parties are there for show. The Al-Ghad party (Ghad means “tomorrow”) is headed by a man named Ayman Nour who has pressed hard for the government to change the constitution to allow for real elections as well as term limits for the President. The fact that Ayman Nour is the real deal appears confirmed by his arrest in January and subsequent interrogation (though hopefully not torture) at the hands of the Egyptian authorities. Whether Ayman Nour will be able to run or not is unclear, but the genie appears to be out of the bottle on this issue.

As for Egyptians, there seems to be, from my own observation, a lot of skepticism. They think it’s probably all for show and that nothing will change. I, however, am not so sure. It is very difficult in this day and age to have a “free election” that isn’t free while getting away with it. If the government thinks they can control this and manipulate it for their own benefit they may be in for a surprise. The same-old-thing merely painted up as something-better might be more inflammatory to the people here than the same-old-thing by itself would be.

The question remains, however: why is Mubarak doing this now? One factor, surely, is mounting pressure for change from America. Another is the example of elections in Iraq, where millions of Iraqis (more than 50% of eligible voters) turned out in the face of threats to “wash the streets” with their blood to cast ballots in what often seemed an almost carnival atmosphere. Iraq’s story, naturally, is far from finished, but the spectacle of elections taking place with such relative success in the LEAST FAVORABLE ENVIRONMENT in the entire Middle East is having an impact on the region. If it can be done THERE, why not HERE?

Another factor, perhaps (and this is my own speculation), has to do with public opinion here in Egypt. They are not large and are not many, but protests against the government and Mubarak’s plans to run for a sixth-term unopposed HAVE been taking place. This sort of thing is virtually unheard of here, and I wonder if the government didn’t realize that—if protests have ALREADY started with the “elections” still many months away—it is entirely possible such disruptions will grow ever larger as election-time approaches. My speculation, then, is this: that the government is worried that popular discontent will dramatically increase and so decided to take preemptive action instead of hoping for the best but then having to cave in under mounting popular pressure. By opening the elections, they also opened a kind of pressure valve to take steam out of the discontent of potential protesters. This way they can also “give in” from a position of real strength, since no one could argue public protests have imperiled the government—at least not yet.

In any case, I deeply hope President Mubarak is sincere and will do his best to follow through on what he’s promised. He is an imperfect leader in a very difficult and dangerous job who has managed to keep Egypt together and at peace for the past quarter of a century. His ushering in a more democratic future for his country, however, would be his greatest triumph—a triumph not only for him, but, indeed, for all Egyptians. I hope he seizes this historic opportunity and does the right thing. This wonderful but troubled country deserves it.

Our Trip to Jordan

Jordan was a place very different from Cairo. There were fewer people, the country was far cleaner, the roads were well-maintained, there were hills, and liquor stores could be seen on streets and in the grocery stores. (Alcohol was also served in most of the restaurants we ate at.) Tiny compared to Egypt (3 or 4 million versus 70 or 80 million), Jordan also benefits from not having to deal with overpopulation. The war in Iraq has been a particularly big boon to the country with many businesses and contractors using Jordan as a stopover on their way to Iraq. Much like Alexandra, it provided a welcome contrast to Cairo though, in the end, I must admit I still prefer the Mother of the World to either place.

We stayed with our friends Kip and Kari, who we met at the job fair last year. As for the rest of the story, I’ll let the pictures and the captions do the work.

Jordan Pictures

The first batch of photos are from Jerash, known in the Bible as Geresa. It was built by Greeks, then was taken over by the Romans. Later on, after the city became a part of the Byzantine Empire, it gave up paganism for Christianity, and many magnificent churches were built. Now, however, churches and temples alike are ruins. Next come photos from Amman, the capital of Jordan. Finally (the day we flew out) there are some pictures from our trek to Mount Nebo where Moses died. Enjoy.

(note: all photographs are displayed chronologically from top to bottom)

Hippodrome


1. Hippodrome
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Chariot races were held here for centuries before audiences of up to 15,000 people. Now, however, there is only Lee, imagining the roars and laughter of the eating and drinking crowds.

Temple of Zeus


2. Zeus
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
The ruins of the Temple proper are located at the top of the hill. Everything in the foreground, including the stairs and the ground we're standing on, is part of the approach to it. In the upper right-hand side of the picture is the outer wall of the South Theater. (see below)

The Actress and Her Stage


3. Faith-Theater
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Faith takes a contemplative stroll across the stage of the Southern Amphitheater. Too bad the ancient Romans never had the chance to see her perform.

South Theater—wider view


4. Theater
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This theater was built by the Roman Emperor Domitian in the first century A.D.

The Cardo


5. Cardo
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
A cardo is a colonnaded street. This one was one of the main thoroughfares of ancient Jerash and, if you look closely, you can see the ruts worn into the paving stones by the wheels of countless wagons that, over many long-lost centuries, rolled here.

Oval Plaza, ground view


6. Oval1
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Oval Plaza, view from near the Temple of Zeus


7. Oval2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Modern Jerash is in the background in this picture.

Church Fountain


8. Fountain
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
I believe this fountain and everything around it is part of the ruins of the Church of Saint Theodore, which was built around 500 AD. By this time, Jerash was under the control of the Christian Byzantine Empire, and the cults of Zeus and Artemis had largely faded from the scene.

Temple of Artemis, First View


9. Artemis1
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
The highlight of our visit to Jerash—and even Jordan as a whole. The remains of this temple are absolutely stunning. After nearly an hour of lingering here, Lee, for one, felt ready to sign up with the goddess.

Temple of Artemis, Second View


10. Artemis2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Columns in the Sky


11. Artemis3
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
So lovely.

It Moves!!!!


12. Artemis4
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Lee, Kip, and a man who sells coffee in the Temple (!) stick their fingers into a crack at the base of a column of the Temple of Artemis to feel the column gently rocking in the late afternoon wind. Feeling this huge structure moving against your fingers is an amazing and somewhat disconcerting sensation. That these columns have stood for over 1,800 years is truly awe-inspiring.

The Cella


13. Artemis5
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Here, long ago, there would have stood a large statue of Artemis, the Greek and Roman goddess of animals, childbirth, and fertility. (She was also the sister of Apollo—the god of the sun, of medicine, and of poetry.) Artemis was the patron goddess of Jerash, which explains the extensive nature of her temple and the long and elaborate Sacred Way leading up to it. Note the arch at the top of the ruin: these seemingly gravity-defying, fragile-looking constructions are in fact exceedingly sturdy, as attested by the fact so many of them still survive.

North Tetrapylon


14. North Tetrapylon
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
These interesting structures marked places where roads converged. This one also probably doubled as an impressive entry to the area containing the Northern Theater.

Yet Another Amphitheater


15. Amphiteater
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
We are no longer in Jerash here, but at another, massive amphitheater in the middle of downtown Amman—Jordan's capital. I think this one could seat something like 8,000 people.

Friends


16. Kip and Kari
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Here are Kip and Kari, our companions, friends, hosts, and guides in Jordan. Thanks, guys: it was great!

The best picture of Lee and Faith ever


17. Perfect!
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Faith is at least four times more photogenic than Lee, so the proportions here are just about right.

Oh Well....


18. Faith and Lee
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Here's a better, Faith-composed version.

Temple of Hercules


19. Temple of Hercules
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
There is not much left of this temple on the mountain overlooking Amman, and yet it is still fascinating to look at. I guess nothing—no matter how strong—lasts forever.

Ummayed Castle


20. Ummayed Castle
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This small castle was built by the Ummayads, a family that ruled the Islamic empire in the 7th and 8th centuries AD. It stands on the same plateau containing the Temple of Hercules and the museum with the Dead Sea Scrolls. (see below.)

Dead Sea Scroll Fragments


21. Dead Sea Scroll Fragments
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
There are thousands and thousands of fragments in existence, but here's one from the museum at the Citadel in Amman. The Scrolls, discovered in jars in caves in the 20th century, include copies of Biblical books as well as new material unique to a sect, probably Essenes, that lived at Qumran. This sect believed a final war between good and evil was imminent, and when the Jews revolted against Rome in 70 AD it seems they went off to fight. Alas, the end of the world had not arrived—except for them.

Dead Sea Jars


22. Dead Sea Jars
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Exactly who hid the scrolls is uncertain, but many people believe the Essenes at Qumran, which is in the same area the scrolls were found, buried them there for safekeeping during the war with Rome.

Really Big Flag


23. Big Flag
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This huge Jordanian flag is supposedly the largest flying flag in the world.

Monastery Church


24. Monastery1
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
The ruins of the church that served the monks on Mount Nebo are now covered with a steel roof. The church is around 1,500 years old.

Monastery Mosaic


25. Monastery2
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Pretty.

Lee Looks Over the Promised Land


26. Monastery.3
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Okay—this isn't really the Promised Land: Jerusalem, Bethlehem, etc. are more to the left but everything (except a faint glimmer from the Dead Sea) was obscured by a thick undercloud of smog that filled the Jordan Valley: not something Moses had to deal with, fortunately.

Lee and Moses (?)


27. Monastery4
Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This, supposedly, is the spot where Moses spied the Promised Land then died. Some sources say he's buried somewhere on Mt. Nebo, others that his bones were taken someplace else. This spot, in any case, feels as pleasant a place as any for kicking back and giving up the ghost.

Three Taxi Drivers

Taxi drivers have something of a bad reputation here. Some of them are downright grumpy, pushy, demanding, and will even jump out of their cabs and follow you if you don’t give them as much money as they want. Their tendency to do this, however, is partially dependent on how you carry yourself. The more you know about what you’re doing, the less likely you are to have any trouble. (But then again, Faith and I have had very little trouble with drivers, despite the fact we rarely know what we’re doing! So go figure!)

Having said this, many cab drivers are wonderful people. One driver I had—who took me all the way from Maadi (far southern Cairo) to Heliopolis (far northern Cairo) for 25 L.E. (a little over $4)—talked with me the whole way about politics (“why do they kill the children?”), about family (he has two wives and eight children), and about economics (he teaches during the day and drives a cab at night to support his family). He also told me about his rather less-inspiring divide-and-conquer strategy of dealing with his wives. “If one wife causes too much trouble,” he says, “I send her home to her family. That way, she learns her lesson while I still have the other wife to take care of things at home.” I agreed that this was clever....

Another taxi driver I met told me about his life: how he had worked a long time in England for an export company then retired to Egypt. He claimed he did not need the money from his driving—that he did it just to keep himself occupied. We had a very nice conversation, and his claim appeared confirmed when, after pulling to a stop before our apartment building, he smiled and said, “we are friends: you do not need to pay your friends.” I , however, insisted, and paid him nonetheless. An extremely kind man. (And, by the way, I also expect this to be the last time a taxi driver actually ASKS me NOT to pay him!)

The last taxi driver I’ll mention was another absolutely delightful person. It was about dusk when he picked us up and the call to prayer was echoing through the streets of Al-Korba (a neighborhood not far from where we live). As he was driving us through the streets and intersections, I noticed that he had a bag between his legs filled with slips of paper which he kept pulling out, looking at, mumbling over, then replacing. I did not look too closely, thinking maybe he was memorizing Quranic verses. I was, however, a little concerned. Because he was doing all this while driving, he kept having to adjust the wheel with his elbows or just one distracted hand and several times I was tempted to reach out and help steady the car as we maneuvered through a couple busy intersections. Finally, as we neared our home, he smiled at me and handed me one of the slips of paper: on one side were words written in English, on the other words written in Arabic. We both laughed: he was literally studying English while driving a taxi! I helped him with the pronunciations of several words, and he told me that now, if his teacher says he is pronouncing a word wrong, he can say, “no! YOU are wrong!” We had a good laugh at this, and by the time he dropped us off I was almost wishing I had offered to keep helping him out. He was such a delightful person, and I was deeply moved by his eagerness to learn and improve his situation. He’s the sort of person Egypt needs to change for. People like him—kind, energetic, willing to learn—deserve more opportunities, not less. I dearly hope that he and Egypt can succeed.

Attack of the Killer Kid-Shoes

I really need to go through Faith’s e-mails and find more of these. The things that happen with her kids are so funny. Here’s one story to whet your appetite:

FAITH: So, I came up with this great idea (so I thought) for the senses. Last week we worked on smell. So, I had items for the kids to smell. Perfume, air spray, and I thought it would be funny to have each child take off their own shoe and smell it. They loved it. But, then, one of the children, Tamer, decided to bring his shoe up to me to smell. So I did. Well, you know how kids are. If one child gets to do it, everybody else wants to too. Well, at that point, you would have thought I was cattle feed poured into a trough and they were all hungry cattle because they all at once proceeded to stampede me and shove their tiny little shoes in my face, waving their small but determined hands back and forth. I could not see beyond an inch from my nose and I thought in order to get them to clear out I would have to smell each and every one. So I started to and then realized that they weren't going away. They were all yelling franticly, "SMELL MINE, SMELL MINE!!!" And slowly I was being crushed by the masses, with tiny shoes bobbing back and forth almost taking out my eyes. I could barely see past the little arms and lethal weapons to notice that one of the dada's had entered at her own risk THANK GOD!!! and was able to take the attention away from me to her. Slowly, the mass started to exit back into single children in their pursuit of finding their desk. A few strayed behind to have me turn their lethal weapons back into transportation devices.

What an adventure!

Locust Madness, and the Coming of Winter

While we were in Alexandria, something amazing happened in Cairo: the city was attacked by a swarm of locusts! This is amusing not only in itself, but also because I had just recently finished a short story with my seniors (“A Mild Attack of Locusts,” by Doris Lessing) in which a farm is virtually destroyed by a locusts. When I got back, they asked me how I knew the locusts would come to Cairo: I said I didn’t know, but that my assigning that story must have caused the swarm to come. Maybe, I suggested, we should next read a short story about a huge earthquake? No, no, no, they shouted! Pretty funny.

Winter arrived about the same time we returned. Alexandria was cooler and much wetter than Cairo, and it rained there off and on the entire three days we were there. Now it became much cooler in Cairo, too. More blankets were thrown on beds, jackets and sweaters were purchased or retrieved from closets, and suddenly everyone was bundled up. The classrooms are not heated, so coats were common. We actually ran our heater in our apartment fairly regularly. As I write this, however (early March), it has begun to warm back up. Though you can still wear sweaters, more than one layer is usually not required.

Can summer’s heat be far behind?

City by the Sea

Way back in November we took a train-ride through the Nile Delta to visit the coastal city of Alexandria and meet up with an Egyptian friend from school, Dalia, who spends much of her time there. The ride was fascinating. Cairo is very brown and gritty, and even the trees and plants look dusty and depressed. The Delta, however, was lush and green, and the contrast was very pleasing. Farms and orchards and small towns were everywhere on both sides of the tracks, and it was amazing to think that human beings—even the very ancestors of the people we saw working in their fields—had seeded, tended, and harvested crops here for thousands and thousands of years. There was little sign of modern farm equipment, no barns, no large farmhouses. Most of the work seemed to be by hand or with the help of animals. People clearly were not rich, but they were surviving. Cairo, for two hours, seemed like another world.

Alexandria is a city of around 3 million people spread in an arc beside the Mediterranean Sea. The city was founded by Alexander the Great over 2,300 years ago, and is famous for (among other things) once housing a wondrous library which was later on destroyed. Much of ancient Alexandria is under water now, but what remains is wonderful—lively, clean, and filled with the scent of the sea—and proved a welcome change from the dry and noisy bustle of Cairo.

First, there are far fewer people in Alexandria, so the sense of crowding is far less overwhelming. It also helps that the city is stretched out along the water, so that just by traveling along the Corniche (the main road which fronts the sea) you can get just about anywhere while having this huge expanse of space on one side. Second, there are laws in Alexandria against excessive honking so the noise pollution is far less odious than in Cairo. (In Cairo, honking is continuous and, indeed, appears to be a major mode of self-expression.) Just being beside the sea was one of the highlights of our visit. It was vast and cool and as we walked along the Corniche (on a broad sidewalk more or less regularly punctuated by covered islands of concrete roofs with benches underneath) we were pleasantly sprayed with seamist as the waves pounded on the rocks below.

There was a different mood in Alexandria, as well. Less conservative, more cosmopolitan, and more open. Especially along the Corniche (resting on those “islands”) were, at all hours of the day and night, men and women talking, holding hands, leaning close together. This was not something we had seen in Cairo. Or maybe it has nothing to do with conservatism at all—maybe it’s the sea that brings the romance out. (A further interesting note: most all the women we saw engaging in these encounters had their hair covered.)

The sea certainly had a significant effect on us. Our hotel room overlooked it, and the first morning there we just lay there in bed, watching the waves come rolling grayly in for well over an hour, the large windows of our hotel room wide open to allow the fresh, wet wind to rush inside and whirl around the room. I kept imagining ancient Greeks setting sail, or cruising beyond the shoreline, or arriving here from somewhere farther north, from the the island of Delos (the birthplace of Apollo), or from Athens. Though the shore has obviously changed, the sea, I realized, probably looked no different.

Some things do not change.

Aside from some very good food and visiting with Dalia, the two highlights of our trip were the Greco-Roman museum and the new, modern Library. At the museum we saw some mummies (one of which, rather disturbingly, had a blackened, curling toe exposed among its crumbling bandages) and got a close up look at some good statues, including one of the Roman philosopher Marcus Aurelius. (One of Lee’s favorite ancient dead guys.) We also joined gazes with a few of the famous Roman-era mummy masks found at the town of Fayoum. These masks were made of wooden boards with the faces of the dead painted on them. The masks were then placed upon the mummies. The faces on the masks can be quite realistic, looking back at you with large eyes and what appears to be a sad and soulful expression, as if they still are sorry for having to be dead and hope we still remember them. Their brown or olive faces, curly dark hair, and penetrating eyes reminded both of us of people we have seen, alive and well, in Egypt.

Even the dead are, in some strange sense, still living.

A good link for the portraits (in French): http://portraits.fayoum.free.fr/

The new Library, however, was perhaps the highlight of our trip. It is a massive, tilted circle of glass and concrete that, supposedly, can be seen reflecting light far out at sea. Behind the windows rise tier on tier of floors—all under one huge slanted roof supported by tall columns—containing books, reading tables, computers, and librarians behind counters and in offices. The stairs go up and up, level after level, and the library will eventually have 8 million books. In the lower level, meanwhile, there is a fine museum containing many artifacts. After exploring a bit, we decided we needed to actually USE this place, and so we found some books, a table, and just sat and talked and read most of the day. It was great.

In case you want to learn more, here is a link to the library’s website:

http://www.bibalex.org/English/index.aspx