Sunday, May 15, 2005

Terrorism and General Egypt Update

The low-light of Rob, Laura, Eric, and Charlotte’s visit was (aside from people hectoring them to buy things or wanting “baksheesh,” which basically means “tips”) concerns about safety. The week before they came a young man tried to throw a bomb in the Khan el Khalili market, killing himself and 3 foreigners, including an American. Because of this, we decided to skip the market and, the first weekend they were here (before they went off on their own journeys outside of Cairo), focus instead on the lovely Al Azhar Park, the Citadel, and Coptic Cairo, which seemed safer places to be than the Egyptian Museum or the Pyramids, which are less defensible and have very high concentrations of foreign tourists.
Fortunately nothing happened while they here, but a week or so after they left there were two more incidents that, it turns out, were related to the first. Apparently several people were still wanted in connection to the first bombing, and one of them blew himself up and injured some tourists near the Museum while being chased by police. The other incident took place a short time after that when the bomber’s fiancee and sister shot at a tourist bus then, we’re told, killed themselves. Neither attack seemed very well planned, which buttresses the government’s claim that this was a small, isolated, and unsophisticated group. I hope this is true. So far, there is no good reason to think it isn’t.

Tensions are, however, growing in Egypt overall. (Though you'd need to read the news to know it, for the most part.) Protests against the government are becoming more common, and the big new Constitutional amendment is receiving a great deal of criticism from opposition leaders for making it too difficult for others to run for President against Mubarak. One interesting development is that a large segment of Egyptian judges is refusing to monitor the elections unless they are given total control over voter lists, ballot distribution, election-day monitoring, vote-counting, etc. They are afraid, it seems, of being used by the government to help make an unfair election look fair. I think this is a very brave and commendable stand, and I hope they are successful. The government, I think, was betting they could manipulate the situation to their advantage: they may succeed, ultimately, in doing this, but protesters, opposition parties, and the judges aren’t going to make it easy. I would guess they all—including (maybe even especially) the Islamic parties—are not happy about the recent terrorism in Cairo. Violence will only give the government more excuses to limit the field of candidates and defend the status quo.

Everyone Together!


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
On the last day of their stay with us, the American tourists and Faith and I went to Rania and Mohammed's for a good traditional Egyptian breakfast chock-full of food and good conversation. Afterwards, we went to the Pyramids.

Seated on the floor from left to right is Charlotte Easterling, her husband Eric Shipley, Abdel-Rahmen, and Habiba. Seated directly behind them are Faith, Lee, and Laura Wood. In the back are Rania, 2 year old Abdullah, Mohammed, and Laura's boyfriend Rob Knowles. Rob and Eric are friends of Lee from way, way back.

Two Mosques


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This picture was taken from the Citadel, the huge, fortified area where the Muhammad Ali mosque is located. It shows two mosques (the Mosque of Sultan Hassan and the al'Rafa'l Mosque) side-by-side. Also note the haze of pollution in the background.

Muhammad Ali Mosque, 2nd View


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Muhammad Ali Mosque


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
No, this incredibly beautiful mosque was made neither by nor for the American boxer! Muhammad Ali was an extremely powerful and influential 19th century Egyptian ruler. One of his many accomplishments, aside from butchering his enemies without mercy, is this wonderful building, constructed around 1850. (Sorry we have no pictures from the inside: we'll go back!)

Church Interior 3


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
The dramatic ceiling of the Church of St. George

Church Interior 2


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Each of these stations along the wall represents, I believe, one of the 12 Apostles.

Church Interior


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.

Coptic Church


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This photo, and the following three, show the Church of Saint George in an area of the city called Coptic Cairo. We visited this area recently with out-of-country friends Rob, Laura, Eric, and Charlotte, who were in Egypt for 10 whole days! While in Coptic Cairo we also saw the famous Hanging Church and got a glimpse inside the stunningly beautiful Ben Ezra Synagogue--a building which now, sadly, is unused, except by tourists.

Clown Invasion!!!!


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
Egyptian birthday parties are curious affairs. Blaring music, screaming kids, and an endless parade of frightening, poorly constructed monster-freaks coming out to dance with (and be assaulted by) the kids are, it seems, de rigueur. The party here pictured was for the children of our good friends Rania and Mohammed. The girl between the blue mutant and freaky vest-wearing clown is their daughter Habiba. Their son, Abdel-Rahmen, was also present but is not pictured. A fun (if absolutely horrifying) time was had by all.

Palace Guards


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This palace, closed to the public, was the summer home of King Farouk. It now is undergoing some renovations while being guarded by two extremely tough-looking Americans.

Faith, Lee, Pillar, and Some Kid


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
This is the outside of the Greco-Roman museum, where we are posing with a pillar. Why this kid is so interested in what we're doing I can't say.

Faith, Lee, and Marcus


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Originally uploaded by Lee Howard.
The statue is of one of Lee's favorite dead guys, the Roman philosopher-emperor Marcus Aurelius. We are in the Greco-Roman Museum in Alexandria here.

Pictures from Alexandria

Here are some old pictures from our trip way back in November to the seaside city of Alexandria. This was before we bought our digital camera, so these pictures were taken by our friend Dalia using a normal camera. A while back she scanned them, and so now we have something to show you from that trip!

A Report on Lee's Situation

About a month ago I switched from teaching to editing/writing numerous school publications. The main problem on the teaching front was that my students were getting more and more difficult to control, I felt I was getting less and less done, and I was given very little help from the school. Our school Director wasn’t happy, she called me in, and we had a long, frank conversation about things. I basically said I could TRY to do better but that I was pretty much burnt-out and felt I simply lacked the skill or the strength to get things back in line. In the end, however, things worked out pretty well. We were already overstaffed, while the school desperately needed help with various publications, the quality of which were distressingly low.

In one sense, of course, all of this is sad. I don't like the idea of quitting the classroom when there was only a month and a half left. However, I felt SO incredibly relieved when we agreed to this that I realized it really was for the best. I could have stuck it out a few more weeks, but I wouldn't have felt good about what I was doing. I don't know if it's because it's spring, or because we had gone so long without a vacation, or because the end of the school year is in sight, but the kids have been very difficult lately—and not just for me: even teachers that have kept firm control of their classrooms have been having problems lately. Another American teacher actually threw five kids out, said they had F's for the course, and that he didn't want to see them anymore. (Now why didn’t I think of that?)

I should note at this point that I had actually been getting along well with my kids. Most of them like me—and several of them have told me that they miss me a lot (one girl even said I had been her best teacher—sigh....)—but the problem was too many of them simply didn't take me seriously enough in terms of classroom discipline. For them, however, it was nothing personal, and I don't think they realized how much it bothered me because I didn't shout or get very angry like several of their other teachers. This was a cultural difference that really undermined me: because the kids were used to people screaming at them (and because even the screaming made an only moderate impression on them) they found it difficult to believe I was serious because I didn't shout and I didn't get angry.

Once, in 11C, which was maybe my favorite class (though they were difficult), I DID get angry and shouted at a couple students and a third student smiled up at me and said, "Mr. Lee, you're a very good actor!" At that point I couldn't help but throw up my hands in exasperation and laugh, "I'm NOT acting!!!”

I guess I just wasn't that convincing.

I’ve also realized that, if I’m going to teach High School anymore, I REALLY need to be careful about the context in which that teaching takes place. I already knew this sort of environment (low skills, high disciplinary problems) was a bad one for me, I just didn't know this was the situation in this school. I ASSUMED a foreign school like this would have far more students who took their education seriously and that behavior issues would be less of a problem than in the States. Unfortunately, this was not true. I did my best, but in the end I just didn't have the experience or willpower or energy to do it. Some days I'd walk into school ready to take care of business, but other days I just couldn't summon the energy to care. It didn't help when I realized I couldn't just crack down for a while until everyone got the message: the way things work here, you ONLY get results WHILE you crack down. The moment you let up, things revert right back into a state of nature. This holds no matter who is in charge.

In any case, this situation was simply not a good fit for me. And yet, it still has been a great experience and I've never regretted—even for a moment—coming here. I’ll cherish the memories of many kids, especially the ones who did the right thing and even tried to help me out. There ARE students at our school who care about learning, who don’t believe that it’s okay to do something simply because you think you can get away with it, and who are unfailingly kind and generous people. I am so thankful for them.